Reflections on being a tourist in India

I have been in Pondicherry for a few days now and once again am feeling grateful to be here and humbled by all I have to learn.

Pondicherry is a tourist destination, right on the ocean.  It is also home of the Sri Aurobindo Ashram.  http://www.sriaurobindoashram.org.  We are staying in one of the ashram guest houses.

The sea side guest house.  It faces the ocean, but our room is in the back.  Every morning we've been walking along the ocean after we do yoga.

It will take me at least one separate blog to share a bit about Sri Aurobindo, so for now I'll just say that Sri Aurobindo was a political activist, Indian Yogi, and spiritual master whose spiritual practice was grounded in Yoga and meditation.  He was also the founder of Auroville, a utopian community right outside of Pondicherry.  http://www.auroville.org. We spent the day there yesterday and will return tomorrow.  I may spend part of April there.

Before my trip to Pondicherry, this trip felt mainly like a visit to friends who happened to live in India.  Now I feel like a tourist, and that brings up all sorts of questions that I am struggling with.  I'll share some of the questions and my rambling thoughts, and invite you to share your thoughts through comments.

First let me say that some of the things people had warned me about I have NOT found to be true.  I was told that the first thing I would notice about India was an odor.  While the open air fish and meat markets certainly have an odor, in general I didn't notice any strong smells.  I was warned that many people would be begging.  Again, there has been some of that, but that also exists to a somewhat lesser degree in many American cities.  However, one of my traveling companions gave one of the beggars money, and was immediately surrounded by others with outstretched hands.

It is impossible to ignore the poverty.  There are people sleeping in the streets. Not every street, everywhere - but I've seen a couple each day I've been here, and sometimes more.  There are many people who seem to be eeking out a living by sweeping the streets, selling trinkets to tourists or other types of labor.  And Pondicherry is exceptional, because many of the people are ashramites, and they get their needs met in return for working for the ashram.  

The streets are filled with dogs who appear to be near death, and many of the stray cows seem to be in a similar condition.  

At the same time, I am constantly reminded of the richness of this culture!  There are reminders of the ashram everywhere, and we've been going to collective meditation at the ashram in the evening.  Most people we interact with are very gracious, and I feel very welcome here.

So what is one to make of all this?  The history of India is extremely complex; it has been invaded by one group after another since the beginning of recorded time.  This is part of the reason the culture is so diverse.  Pondicherry itself "belonged" to the Dutch for a while, then was taken over by the French, who built a bustling city here.  Then the British came and burned it all down.  I don't remember how many times it went back and forth between the French and the British, but  it was more than once.  And of course, that is only recent history.

So, if one could turn back time and let India belong to India since the beginning, things here would be much different.  But that can't be done.  And of course, then India wouldn't be India!

As an American, what are my choices?  I can stay home and ignore it or complain about how we contribute to the terrible conditions here.  I can come here and belittle it, focus on its shortcomings and look down my nose at the people.  Or I can come here and learn.  I want to stress the learning, because there is MUCH to be learned,  I can be respectful to the people I interact with.  I can spend some of my tourist dollars here.  I can share with those in my circle my love and respect for this amazing culture.  

Maybe that's all a justification for being just another American tourist, but as I said before - I am glad I am here.

Most of these pictures were taken from the car as we were moving along.  I don't feel comfortable walking the streets here, snapping pictures of typical street scenes.  That makes me more of a tourist than I feel comfortable being.

Leaving Chennai.  There are a lot of tall buildings, a lot of construction.  Sometimes it's hard to tell the construction sites from the demolition sites.

This brave woman was trying to sell something to drivers at one of the rare traffic lights where the traffic actually stopped.

Out in the countryside!  Lots of green things growing.  Little villages every few miles.

We saw mile after mile of these trucks parked along the side of the road.  Just going one direction, not the other.  No idea what it was all about.

On some of the road, flowering bushes had been planted in the median.

These cows are the lucky ones, with shade trees and pasture lands to enjoy.

A typical village scene on the way to Pondicherry.

Arriving in Pondicherry, which had the feel of a tourist town as soon as we entered the outskirts.

Walking along the ocean is a popular pastime for all of the tourists.  In the evening they close the street to traffic and don't reopen it until around 7:30 in the morning.

This statue of Ghandi is right on the ocean, close to our hotel.

This woman was sweeping the streets of Pondicherry with the straw broom you see on the ground next to her.  I asked her if I could take her picture, and she graciously assented.

High waves here, and yet we see small fishing boats every morning.

Morning rush hour in Pondicherry.

More Pondicherry rush hour.

Street art.

India Street Scenes - Part 1

A picture can be more powerful than any words I can add, so I will share a few pictures I've taken, mostly from the car as we are driving along.  Sometimes Ravi drives, but most of the time Vignesh drives.  Vignesh is a soft-spoken young man, usually smiling.  He was married last May and is expecting his first child this spring.  He is skilled at what is a very challenging job - finding his way safely through this chaotic traffic.

Vignesh takes us safely where we need to go and helps us when we get there. He is worth his weight in gold!

A group of about 12, mostly students, from Denison, arrive tomorrow for a one week seminar, so everyone is busy preparing.  I will be doing some traveling with Barbara, a professor from Denison who began her one month stay here just before Christmas.  This will be our first time venturing away from the comfortable, safe home that Ravi and Sheela are providing for us.  We will be gone about 10 days, visiting Pondicherry, Tiruvannamalai, and Trichey.  We will be visiting ashrams, alternate communities and temples, and finding our way on our own.  Even so, this is a baby step because Ravi has helped us arrange our transportation and lodging.  I hope to be able to report from the road.

All I'm sharing with you so far are sense impressions.  I still don't know what I think and feel about all this.  I can tell you this much.  I am definitely glad I am here and I believe I have a lot to learn from this experience.  

Motorcycles and bicycles are common modes of transportation.  Most women are wearing saris, even on bicycles.

Whole families ride on motorcycles, and it isn't unusual to see a mother holding onto an infant.

Auto rickshaws are another common form of transportation.  Usually they are more crowded than this one.  We plan to give one a try soon.

   Traveling in style.

It really requires a video to give you a sense of how quickly all this traffic moves, how close vehicles come to each other, and how many horns are blaring all at once.

Most sidewalks, when there are sidewalks, are filled with vendors of all kinds.

Shoes?  Who needs shoes?

Crossing the street can be a real challenge.

Both these girls look like they can nap almost anywhere!

Helmets are required for motorcycle drivers but not for passengers.  And as with all other traffic laws here, this one is ignored.

These women were working in their saris with orange vests over top.  A very dusty job.

With no sidewalks most places, the streets must also accommodate pedestrian traffic.

And the occasional bovine visitor as well.

There are beautiful sights to be seen along the way.

Kalakshetra - The Holy Place of Art

One week in India, and what a rich week it has been.  We are growing accustomed to our new home, to the new sights, sounds, smells and tastes.  We are even getting used to the new time zone.  I had my first good night's sleep last night.  We've had a lovely balance of activities and time to relax.  We went shopping and now have clothes that make us feel like we fit in a little better.  

    Dasa likes Kelley's new look, and so do all of us!

There are so many things I would love to share!  Perhaps I need to blog more often.  For today, I want to tell you about our visit to Kalakshetra, the Holy Place of Art.  Kalakshetra is located on 100 acres in southern Chennai.  "It provides a holistic education in arts amidst a serene and inspiring natural environment cultivating a spirit of reverence."

We arrived in time for the opening prayers under the Banyon tree at 8:30.  The prayers were in multiple languages, including Sanskrit, English, Hindi, Tamil and Urdu.  They were from a variety of religions, including Hindu, Christian, Islam, Buddhism, and Sikh.  It was a very moving ceremony, and visually beautiful with all the colorful saris and kurtas.  No photos were allowed, but I was able to get a photo of just the tree later.

Part of the Banyan tree we gathered under for prayers.  The tree is much too big to fit in just one photo.

After the prayers, we were permitted to wander around the campus, which consists of small open air cottages where the students gather to practice music and dance.  We watched and listened from outside, so as not to disrupt the learning.  We sat in the auditorium and watched a rehearsal for an upcoming dance concert.  I wish I had a video to share, but no pictures or video were permitted.  This will give you an idea http://youtu.be/M4b8hm9vJyo. The energy and precision required were impressive.

On the other side of the campus, the emphasis is on textiles.  Here we saw people weaving saris in both silk and cotton on big traditional looms.  We saw others doing block prints on fabric, dying fabrics, and finally hand painting saris!  The people here were very gracious and invited us in to take a close look and described what they were doing.  A few times we asked if we could take a picture, and they consented.  The gentleman who showed us around turned out to be the artist who drew the pictures the women were painting.  He grabbed a pencil and a piece of cotton and proceeded to draw a picture of Ganesh, free hand and complete in just a few minutes!  Amazing. We were delighted, and this is a place I will likely return to during my four month stay here.

                   The campus is beautiful, inspiring and serene.

The kolam at the entrance to the auditorium was quite large.

That is a garland of real flowers around the neck of the statue.

It takes a seven step process to fix the dyes.  Here a couple of the women got right into the water vat, and didn't seem to mind getting their saris wet.

This gentleman is weaving in cotton.  It takes two people to do the silk weaving.  The thread is so fine that many more threads are required.

Hand painting material for a sari.  All the dyes are from natural materials.  It takes 20 days to paint a sari.

In about five minutes this gentleman had created a beautiful sketch of Ganesh, the Hindu god who removes obstacles.

So much India in less than 24 hours!

It is almost next year, and probably will be by the time I finish this entry.  This first day has been so filled with new things that I really want to write some of it down quickly before I forget.

The journey here was long but problem-free.  We got in at 1 AM.  The lines were long, but not too terribly  bad.  We got through immigration then waited a long time for our luggage, but went through customs without any problem.  We saw Ravi waving at us as we walked out of the airport.  The ride to his house was a little wild, but at 2:30 AM the traffic was not anything compared to what we experienced today!

Our beautiful and gracious hosts, Ravi and Sheela.

Here are a few of the many things that I've experienced on this first amazing day.

+ I drank traditional Indian coffee in the traditional Indian way.  Love at first sip!

+ I learned to eat wonderful Vegetarian fare the traditional Indian way, with my fingers.  Yes, with my fingers!

+ I zapped mosquitoes with a really cool electronic zapper!  My apologies to my Buddhist friends, but eliminating mosquitoes is a basic health practice here.

+ I learned how to get hot water and how to operate the shower.  Important skills.

+ I relaxed on the patio and enjoyed the wonderful tropical weather and lush tropical vegetation.

+ I went to a traditional Indian dance concert.

+ I survived a ride through REAL Indian traffic.  No words can describe it.  Really, it is more challenging than everything you've heard and read.  

+ I walked through a bustling open market and saw vegetables I've never seen before.

+ I saw a traditional kolam, made by our cook Indrani, outside the front door.  This is a traditional Indian drawing made fresh each morning with rice flower.

+ I participated in an after lunch discussion, which ranged from plans for tomorrow to politics to food to religion to history to philosophy.  Because, especially in India, it's all related.

And it's the new year!  Although back home you still have to wait another 10 1/2 hours.

                                    HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!!

The sweaters and blankets many of you gave me to bring for the people of the Himalyas.  Thanks!

             The traditional kolam.  I wonder what it will look like tomorrow.

             Kelley knows how to relax.

                                     And Google really knows how to relax.

Eating with my fingers was more difficult than I'd thought it would be.  And messy!

The Bharatanatayam dance concert was amazing.  They used every part of their bodies to tell the story, including fingers, eyebrows, toes and eyes.  Very elegant, very beautiful.  It is the classical South Indian dance.

                       Sheela is an expert mosquito zapper!

Leaving on a jet plane. Don't know when I'll be back again.

Well, the "reconnect tour" is over and I'm on my way. 

I am in the Charlotte NC airport right now.  I fly to Miami, where I have a 5 hour layover.  Time enough to make last minute calls to friends and family, and to finish this blog.  Then I fly 8 1/2 hours to London Heathrow where I have a three hour layover and meet up with Dasa and Kelley.  Then the 10 hour flight to Chennai, where Ravi will be waiting for us when we arrive at 1:00 AM December 31.  Hopefully enough time to take a nap before we see the New Year arrive.  I don't usually stay up for the celebrations, but I'm going to try this year! 

In the meantime, I am, as always, reflecting on the year past and setting intentions for the year to come.  Those of you who know me know that it has been a challenging year for me: health scares, moving out of my beloved Weeping Cherry estates after 22 years, seeing my aspirations for the future kind of fall apart.  But the year is ending on an upward trend, and I look forward to 2014 with gratitude for another precious year of life.  Through it all, I've had the loving support of friends and family.  And when one door has slammed shut, another door has opened!  Finally, the teachings of Thich Nhat Hanh have helped me to water the seeds of love and gratitude, and not those of bitterness.

I spent the last two days packing, and managed to bring quite a few blankets and sweaters for the people of the Himalayas in my two free bags.  I cut it close - one weighed 48.5 lbs. and the other 45.5 lbs.  I'm sure I have more stuff than I need, even though I'll be there over four months.  (Four months - I still can't believe it!)

In the Miami Airport now.  Time to make those phone calls.  The next blog will come to you all from India!  I will miss you all, and it's good to know you are keeping me company by following the blog.  Do keep in touch!  I won't have phone service, but I will have access to email most of the time, once I get settled.

I managed to get stuck in the mud at the goat farm, and Donna and Deann had to pull me out!  Hilda was smart enough to stay inside, out of the rain.  It was a very nice visit, in spite of all the rain.

It stopped raining for a while when I visited my brother Dean and his wife Mary Ann on their lovely mini-farm in Ranger Georgia.  They are a happy couple!

Shelia and B. G. love to cuddle.  The good news is that B. G. cuddled with me too!  And Shelia helped me out with lots of things I needed.

Alan was my ride to the airport, and he helped me lug my heavy luggage up the stairs.  (What a time for the escalators to be out!). Check in went smoothly.